Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
